Wales is great when its dry and you stay in an upside down boat.....
After our interesting but slightly frustrating trip into Suffolk and Norfolk camping, myself and Jeff started a few on line discussions almost straight away to do another long weekend away. Both of us are trained in health and safety, and in epidemiology to some extent, and we agreed that there would be a second spike to the COVID epidemic, followed by a lock down, and if we wanted to get away it had to be sooner rather than later. Also a decision was made pretty early on to not stay in the big bell tent, or in our own tents, but in something else. But what? Hotels might be not available as it was holiday time when we planned to go, hostels were looked into and you had to book the whole hostel, and B and B might be a bit too pricey for us, much as a cooked breakfast is appreciated. My idea was to stay in camping pods, something I had first seen advertised in the Highlands about 15 years ago, but they had now become a popular thing. We started to search around and managed to book a pod at Rhosgadw Farm a few miles from St Davids in that most English part of Wales, Pembrokeshire. A county I have never visited, well at least not properly - I fleetingly passed through in about 2002 in a trip where I stayed with Cockney Pete he of CB500S fame, in Camarthenshire in a holiday cottage. A trip memorable for 3 things; a pub like a saloon where the piano player stops playing when outlanders walk in; a visit to Portmerion, and me being violently ill with a migraine and throwing up in the main street of Lampeter. A dodgy chicken Kiev may have been behind it….from the pub of course.
I set off for St David's at about 9:30AM on the Friday morning, loaded up with clothes, sleeping bag, hiking boots, eating irons and sundry bits and pieces. Lovely new rear on the Guzzi. I have done the ride to Wales a few times from here,and the ride for me is broken into 3 parts known as Boring Parts 1, and 2, and Mildly Nice Bit 3. As I ride/drive the A38 to work in Exeter, there is nothing to see. Then from Exeter to past Bristol to the M48 there was little to see, but a huge traffic jam to filter past for about 10 miles. For some reason, I hate Gordano services, so my first stop was at Severn View. After getting some gas and a drink I crossed the Severn and the view on this clear and dry day was pretty good. Oldbury Nuclear Power Station (defunct) was clearly seen. I always like entering Wales, and its always sad to leave - the riding is usually great. Along the M48 and then M4 finally to turn off for Raglan on the A449, not the most exciting ride and quite busy at the time I came through. Lots of HGVs. I was now on the A40 and I was going to stay on this road all the way to Haverfordwest. The first bit to Abergavenny is OK but not all that special, but the riding improves greatly just outside the town and coming up through the bends of Bwlch and down the other side was pretty nice. I think it would make a great bikers holiday cottage village….The mountains were getting to dominate the landscape, in a way they don’t in Devon, because we don’t really have any - just Dartmoor. That's OK, but it doesn’t compare with the Brecon Beacons.
I have read elsewhere that the A40 is too busy to be a fun road to ride. I must have been lucky on that Friday, because there were not that may people on the road and it was a hoot. There is good tarmac and great curves with fine views left and right, and just between Brecon and Sennybridge I found a lay-by with coffee and burgers and that is what I had for lunch. The burger was juicy, onions sweet, bun was fresh AND IT WAS BUTTERED! I had a good half hour rest there. Through Llandovery and the riding was still good, but just past there the road became a little less involving but still OK for a bimble. I didn’t stop at the West End Café, not this time. Past Llandeilo and the road definitely straightened out and even became a dual carriageway as I approached Camarthen. There were large queues of cars waiting for drive through Covid-19 testing. Carmarthen to Haverforwest a bit nondescript; dual carriageway and roundabouts, but once on the road to St David's after a very busy Haverfordwest (what do all these people do?) things got interesting, with road twisting dipping and turning through fields greener than in South Devon. . I stopped for gas and picked up a text that Jeff would be waiting at the pub in Solva - fine. Sent one back saying I would be there soon and headed onwards where great views over St Brides Bay opened up, and Newgale was a spectacular location but the camp ground was rammed. Got to Solva and found the pub, what a sweet place it was but Jeff wasn’t there so I pushed on and finally we met up near the war memorial square. After quick chat about our respective journeys we headed to the camp site which is only a mile or so from town.
I had never stayed in or even been inside a camping pod before. The pods on this site had been beautifully made by a former boat builder, now sadly passed away,and ours was the smallest. Power was available, a gas cooker for use outside, water container, a good sized double bed and a child's size single bed (that proved to small for me so I slept on the floor on a nice mattress - still very comfortable). Well insulated. Outside was a sturdy wooden camping table with bench seats. My impression was it was a bit like a hobbit house, but on the surface! A shared amenity block had all the other things we needed. The views from the site were pretty good too - towards the coast a short walk away Carn Llidli was most prominent.
After getting squared away we rode back into town to get fresh supplies, unfortunately the wrong way. Crossing the ford below the Cathedral there is a good step of between 100 and 200mm on the way out and I caught it slightly wrong and nearly dropped the bike. Stocking up in the Co-op and once back at site we prepared a 3 course meal, cheese, wine, pasta, and creme caramel for desert. Then more wine. Jammy Red Roo from Yellowtail - I highly recommend it. Its a wine for drinking, in fact quaffing. The talking went on pretty late into the night……
Next day after a pretty lavish breakfast that had eggs, bacon, fried flat bread instead of toast and a few other things I cant remember plus coffee and orange juice, it was decided that the first order of business was to fix the low beams on Jeff's Norge, which had been out of whack and weak on the ride down (Jeff set out Thursday night after work to cut the miles and stayed in a hotel that night). Turns out the wrong bulbs had been fitted so there was a quick run into Halfords in Haverfordwest to get the right ones, and then a little while to fit them. As a fair bit of riding had been done the day before, it was decided to go for a walk while the weather was great. The coastal path was only a short distance to the west and after getting a few things together and strapping on the hiking boots we set off away from the farm. From the camp site the western views are dominated by a line of low hills, on the left is Carn Llidli. On the other side of the hills is the Pembrokeshire coast and the coastal path. So a short while later we were walking up the hills and came to what I would call a “tor” after the ones on Dartmoor, but I am sure its really something else. The views were amazing both north and south.
I live on the South Devon coast, but this was a grander scale entirely. Walking down towards the sea cliffs on the other side, we came across about 8 people gathered watching seals from the cliff top, in a bay far below. At first it was hard to see the pups or the mothers, but eventually I could pick them out, as well as a few of the bull seals just out at sea by about 30 metres or so. It was a strangely mesmerizing scene…. The mothers were (or it seemed like to me) trying to coax the pups into the water for their first swim - and the pups were not having any of that!
Once we left the seals the walk along the coast was windy, but the enormous views kept getting better and better. Eventually we were on the seaward side of Carn Llidli, and naturally we had to climb it. Getting towards the final pinch I wasn’t too happy as I’m not a one for rock climbing or heights (despite flying gliders when younger - but that’s different!) but with a little encouragement was able to get to the top and it was worth it. On top it was a howling gale, so we only stayed for about 10 minutes. One thing we saw from the top was the giant caravan park between our camp site and the much more beautiful Whitesand Bay, which indeed looked to have white sand. The caravan park was a jar to the sensibilities, but I suppose people really do want to come and enjoy this part of Wales, and also people want to make a living providing somewhere for them to stay. On the top, there were metal anchors and bars set in concrete, and later that day I learned that a Chain Home Low radar antenna had been sited there.
Once we had been on the top for long enough we came down and eventually hit the road, and by following that got back to the camp site. I had taken a lot of photos with my Nikon FE, using 200 asa expired colour film that I was given. It was a professional level film, well stored, but past its best storage date. These are the photos of the coast shown here, and I think they came out OK.
Later that day we rode to Whitesands Bay to watch the sun go down over the small islands to the west - it was spectacular. After a good dinner rustled up on the gas cooker and more wine and cheese, and even further shooting the breeze, it was time for sleep. The Milky way stood out in a brilliant way. This time I slept on the floor mattress, and slept very well. The next day was to be a riding day.
Sunday morning was a bit chilly due to the clear skies overnight, but soon enough we had a good breakfast, coffee, and orange juice inside us and were looking at maps to try and plot a route for the day. The idea was to take in as much of the great riding roads we could hit in a day of somewhere around 200 miles, have a nice lunch, and see some stuff. The planned lunch stop was Lampeter, and the Black Mountain Road was supposed to be a highlight. I had missed a turn off to the route 18 months ago when on a trip with a new motorcycle rider on his first trip away, and didn’t want to miss it this time.
When I went to start my bike it was reluctant to start, and would not idle unless the “choke” - really an idle speed thingy as its fuel injected - was turned on. I had noticed this the day before, but thought little of it, but now it was a worry. The only thing we could put it down to was bad fuel from my last fuel stop at Pelcomb Bridge, so I hoped when I needed fuel clean stuff would cure the poor running.
The run from our camp site to Fishgaurd along the A487 was a lovely road of sweeping corners, hardly any villages to slow things down and the traffic was light, and dispatched with ease by the Guzzis. Past Fishgaurd and the views opened out to the sea a bit to Dinas Head, and the riding remained good. We came off the road to look at the Castell Henllys Iron Age Site, but unfortunately no access to the site was possible due to COVID restrictions. At Eglwyswrw (which I have not the slightest idea how to pronounce so we both called it “the Eggy place”) we struck off the main road and got a bit of elevation on the way to Cenarth - surprisingly a busy little place on this Sunday - lots of pub and tea shoppe action by the looks of it.
We got separated in Newcastle Emlyn, but after about 20 minutes it was sorted out. And we moved on towards Lampeter, where we planned to have lunch. This turned out to be a false hope, we just couldn’t see anywhere to stop and eat! I am sure cafés were there, but we missed the lot. Some friendly blokes on sports bikes pointed us to a service station down the A482 and I was pretty pleased to pull in there as the warning light for low fuel had been on for a while. After filling up we enjoyed, and really mean ENJOYED, riding on the 482. This is 17 miles of fun, and we were not the only bikes enjoying it. We hit the A40 and then left to Llandovery where food was obtained at the excellent Haven Café, which was packed on this dry sunny day, lots of bikes. . By the way the fresh fuel cured the problem by the time I got to The Haven, so that was a relief. And so on to the Black Mountain road, which was approached along the river valley to Llangadog, then a slow climb into the hills proper which opened out in a majestic way. It wasn’t a day for going that fast as there was heavy traffic. But the actual famous bit was rather good in a “look at that nice scenery” kind of way. People were on deck chairs everywhere, camper vans all over the place, a few sports cars and a few bikes, all of us enjoying the sun. My big regret was that we didn’t stop on the top for a few pics and an ice cream. Its a ride I definitely want to do a again, it has echoes of the Alps or more properly maybe the foothills of the Pyrenees. At Upper Brynamman we stopped for a minute to check the route and then headed to Ammanford along through places that had a definite air of desperation; derelict houses and shops, old model cars, even the few people we saw looked a bit worn out. Maybe this area has been one of the places that has lost out during 10 years of cutbacks in public services and support, and declining industry.
Once we hit the 483 we headed north again to hit the A40 at Llandeilo, and then continued on the road west. This was (particularly once we hit the outskirts of Camarthen) known to be fairly boring riding, so we just pushed along the dual carriageway and there was not a lot to say until we turned off for Pendine. Its a nice enough ride from St Clears to Pendine, but traffic was heavy and when we got to Pendine it was heaving!! We decided to go there as both of us like speed machines, but when we got there the Speed Museum was closed and well…..there was very little to see and a lot of people trying to see it! Met a fella on a big GS who was following the coast all the way - he was having a good old wiggly time. We soon decided to leave, so after a quick shop in the local store for wine, cheese, and food (yes folks, its great to have luggage space for wine!!!) we headed home via Red Roses and Narberth, Haverfordwest ad finally St David's. Short stop in Solva on the way back for a most appropriate beverage (just the one)..
Total mileage was about 220 miles on the day, and quite a lot of it was really fine riding. My only regret was visiting Pendine, when we could have maybe taken a different nicer route back, or spent half an hour on top of the Black Mountain Road. Oh well. We were a bit tired so the meal was a simple one with wine and cheese, biscuits, some sort of dessert, coffee, more wine…..and though it was a chilly and windy night we retired inside to our upside down boat home past midnight tired and happy.
We didn’t spring to it with alacrity in the morning, we took our time, after all no tent packing was required. Time to go was around 1030AM, an soon we were droning along the A40, retracing my route on Friday. Once past Llandeilo its a good ride if the traffic is light, and it wasn’t too bad on a Monday, particularly between Llandovery and Abergavenny. We got to Abergavenny in pretty good time and got some food and drink for a quick lunch. Then it was time to part - Jeff to Monmouth and then eventually to Newcastle, and me on the Usk Road to Chepstow then over the Severn, M4, M5, A38 and then home. I can’t say it wasn’t a sad parting; it was. In these times, time spent with a good friend is a most precious thing. I think I got home about 4PM, and for the first time on a bike trip in a very long time - never got rained on once!
Total miles ridden was about 760 or so. The big lessons of the trip were that camping pods are a very good choice if you can find one that suits, and that you can save a lot of money by NOT eating out all the time, and by cooking your own meals at breakfast and dinner. And if the weather is good, its actually nice to sit outside and do that. Also that you don’t HAVE to ride 200 miles every day to have a fine motorcycle trip. Our walk on the second day was a perfect counterpoint to the day before of riding.
Bye for now.
PS - Rhosgadawr Farm Camping ground is highly recommended. They have a few pods of different sizes, spaces for tents and caravans, good facilities. Link below
http://www.campingstdavids.co.uk/camping-pods/
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